Late last year, new work in fine jewelry by the otherwise bridge category designer proved favorable to the crowd at the "Designers by the Bay" event held at Shreve & Co. in San Francisco.  The newcomer to the list of 20 established fine jewelry exhibitors showcased textured cuffs, sculpted earrings and intricate filigree scrollwork in 18K and 14K gold and fine silver with gemstones.  Now, John is with us to share his views.

Let’s start with a very basic question, John , what originally inspired you to become a jewelry designer?

My artistic background is rooted in childhood work with my father as a stained glass artist.  As I helped him assemble the different pieces, I began to become more intrigued by their geometric shapes and glowing colors.  In high school, I worked extensively with ceramics.  Working with my hands and using tools to form shapes and to carve patterns that were of my own design is what I truly fell in love with.

Can you share with us an experience from your training or a competition when you were a newcomer?

I’ve only been designing handcrafted jewelry since 2006.  I recently won the "2008 Bay Area’s Best Designer Jewelry Award," a voter-based award recognizing best business in all areas of fashion, lifestyle, and shopping from the San Francisco Chronicle’s online division, www.sfgate.com.   I reached out to my customers to provide testimonials and before I knew it, clients who shop online, who I’ve met at various events, and who I’ve designed custom work for were responding left and right.  I’m so thankful to have a dedicated client base who enjoy the work and time I put into designing each piece.

What about your work background?

As I grew older I moved away from the creative fields and climbed the corporate ranks to become a Vice President of Finance for Charles Schwab.  After 9/11, I really began to rethink what I was doing with my life and I couldn’t necessarily say that I loved my job.  When my father died in 2003, I decided to take the offer for voluntary layoffs and adopted by new mentality of  "Do what you love and explore what you are passionate about."  But I didn’t necessarily know what that was.  Some months later I heard about a new Japanese product called PMC (precious metal clay).  I set up a basic jewelry-making shop in my basement and went from there.   

We know the path of success is never easy.  You’ve come this far and sometimes your road wasn’t smooth.  Did you have difficult times in your career?  What was it, and how did you get through it?

My greatest challenge was to make a transition from "corporate life" to the entrepreneurial world of self marketing and promotion…both online and offline, and learning about all the different facets and segments of the jewelry industry.  I was fortunate to be introduced to the San Francisco Small Business Development Center ( a branch of the US-Small Business Administration) that had business consultants specializing in the wholesale jewelry industry.  I was able to use their industry expertise and apply it to my business plan.  This allowed me to jump start my business by learning from their mistakes and successes and I have flourished ever since. 

Currently, the entire world is being hit by an economic crisis, including the jewelry market.  What do you think about the situation and what should those in the business do to survive these tough times?

I think we’re all trying to figure that out right now.  I’ve been communicating with my retailers and core clients to learn what they need and want right now and I’ve been giving it to them.  I’m also working on building a greater online base and have launched several targeted jewelry sites to reach specific customers, www.handmadecopperjewelry.com, www.handmade-silver-jewelry.com, and www.handcrafted-gold-jewelry.com along with a recent facelift to www.johnsbrana.com.

 People can always expect an awesome collection from you.  They may wonder how you can create such fine things.  Can you tell us where the ideas come from?

All of my collections are named after different neighborhoods or areas in and around San Francisco, where I live.  To me, this is the most beautiful city in the world.  We have so much cultural diversity and contrasts in natural and urban landscapes.  Anyone can drive down the Pacific Coast Highway, take a drive through wine country, or stroll through the micro-neighborhoods and be inspired. 

 Let’s talk about your latest collection.  Which one is your most favorite piece?

My latest work focuses on various metal raising techniques within my SoMa Collection (commonly referred to as anticlastic, synclastic, and fold forming).  I would have to say that my Corrugated Silver Bracelets are my favorite, since they pose the greatest challenge – that of not marring or collapsing the corrugation while forming the bracelet.

What will we be seeing from John S. Brana in 2009?

Expanded offerings across many of my collections, with the bulk of new items in the Nob Hill, SoMa, and Men’s Jewelry Collections.  For the Nob Hill, look for an introduction of pendants and rings.  SoMa will expand to include a wide variety of 14K and 18K Hammered and Embossed Yellow Gold set with faceted colored gemstones.  The Men’s Jewelry Collection will expand to include rings set with colored gemstones and diamonds, along with a male version of the SoMa collection. 

We often talk about your jewelry collections.  However, we wish to know your lifestyle as well.  Care to share, John?

Work, work, work… can best some it up!  I’ve always been a workaholic and put in at least 75 hours a week, so it’s probably a blessing that I’m single.  I’ve traveled the world during my corporate days, so when I do wind down, I like to coordinate my travels with jewelry related business.  I also network quite a lot within the local San Francisco fashion scene.

 Do you have any favorite precious metal or gemstone?  If so, we wonder why you love it?

I have always loved the rich color of 18K yellow gold along with large faceted colored gemstones.  This is why over the next year you will be seeing quite a few new pieces in 18K gold.  Another favorite metal, although not considered precious, is copper.  This evolved at the request of a customer.  She commissioned a piece about two years ago that was made in copper, and ever since, I have favored the metal.  Its rich color is easily confused with rose gold, and at a faction of the price, has proved to be one of my hottest selling lines.

 Do you have a favorite quote?

"Do what you love and explore what you are passionate about."

 Thank you very much for joining JWR Magazine.  Before biding farewell, do you have any other thing to say to our readers and the industry worldwide?

Just a bit of advice as we start a new year…evaluate what worked for your business in 2008 and keep doing more of it, stop doing what didn’t.  To quote Albert Einstein, "Insanity: Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results."

This feature can be found staring on page 60 of the Jan/Feb 2009 edition of Jewellery World Review.

©2010 Handcrafted Fine Jewelry Blog by John S. Brana. All Rights Reserved.

“I was drilling holes for the earwires using a drill press and instead of turning it off, I accidentally increased its speed and the metal just started flailing and spiraling around the drill bit!” described Brana who created over ten new designs for the event.  “When I finally got it to turn off, it had formed this twisted fan shape and I thought, ‘that’s pretty cool… now how do I do that again?’”  Thankfully, he was able to recreate the shape as it is now available with several gemstone varieties at a suggested retail of $880.  Equally as stunning is a pair of 18K Gold and Fine Silver Filigree earrings. 

Just as Brana is entering the upper crust of fine jewelry, he continues to develop his lines of bridge category designs inspired by the city in which he creates them, San Francisco.  Among the most commented upon and tried on piece of his collection for the event was his anticlastic copper cuffs.  “Copper is one of my favorite metals.  It showcases amazing texture and its rich, rose gold color is so beautiful on so many people,” said Brana who handcrafts original jewelry designs ranging from $65-$4000.  In the coming months look for new collections including Muir Woods featuring earthy, forest themes, and an artistic collaboration with a German-born chef at sea who captures the images of sea-worn ships in abstract photography and wearable silk art.  To view each of his collections, visit www.johnsbrana.com.  For wholesale and media inquiries, contact Karri Ann Frerichs, Altitude Promotions at karriann@altitudepromotion.com or 402.490.2579. 

New Jewelry – SoMa Collection

©2010 Handcrafted Fine Jewelry Blog by John S. Brana. All Rights Reserved.

Niche- Artists Showcase – A special section highlights some of the best artists you will find in NICHE.  Purchase works for the busy season ahead.  Page 96. San Francisco-inspired wearable art jewelry by John S. Brana includes anticlastic, hammered, filigree, and beaded gemstone collections in silver, copper, 14kt – 18kt gold and bronze. 

©2010 Handcrafted Fine Jewelry Blog by John S. Brana. All Rights Reserved.

Anamika wears Brazilian Fire Agate Pendant from the SoMa Collection and Two Anticlastic Copper Bracelets from the Sea Cliff Collection

Anamika wears Corrugated Sterling Silver Cuff and Jellyfish earrings from the Sea Cliff Collection along with a Smoky Quartz Cocktail Ring from the Pacific Heights Collection.

Anamika wears Crystal Quartz, Citrine, and Onyx Beaded Gemstone Necklace from the Barbary Coast Collection and a Large Faceted Citrine Cocktail Ring from the Pacific Heights Collection

Anamika wears Hammered Silver Earrings from the SoMa Collection

Anamika wears Jellyfish Earrings from the Sea Cliff Collection

Anamika wears Sterling Silver Grape Earrings set with Serpentine from the Sonoma Collection and a Large Green Gold Quartz Hammered Sterling Silver Ring from the SoMa Collection

Credits

Cowel Neck Halter by theSutra
Sheer Sequence Tunic by theSutra
Ruffle Blouse by theSutra
Drawstring Crop Blouse by theSutra
Layered Maxi Dress by theSutra

Photography: Brett Ferguson
Model: Anamika
Wardrobe Styling: Altitude Promotions
Makeup Artistry: Cosmetics Couture
Hair Styling: Assaf Hasson
Jewelry: John S Brana – Handcrafted Fine Jewelry

©2010 Handcrafted Fine Jewelry Blog by John S. Brana. All Rights Reserved.

Jewelry collections by John S. Brana are on target with the Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear designer runways.

The Fall 2008 season is characterized by gray being the new black…again, the maxi dress in bold patterns and red-carpet glamour, and rich textured fabrics ruched, frayed and displayed in origami folds. Not to be overlooked however, chunky beaded necklaces, jeweled teardrop earrings and undeniable cuffs all played strong supporting roles in collections of main fashion houses. Iconic designers including Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, John Galliano and Yves St. Laurent each showcased standout jewelry pieces, whose themes may be interpreted in the eclectic jewelry collections of John S. Brana.

A true talent for combining colors and textures has always been present in several of Brana’s San Francisco-inspired collections, including Barbary Coast and Monterey. This upcoming season, feel free to lighten up a classic turtleneck tucked into belted trousers as a solid black or gray ensemble with a chunky gemstone necklace in a tri-tone color scheme. Choose your favorite of these colors and complete the look with a matching clutch and pair of heels and you are ready for the office or a lunch meeting.

A simpler, but just as dynamic, alternative to the chunky necklace is the large pendant. Get ready for the night in your knockout maxi gown by drawing the eye to your low, flirty neckline with a stunning solo gemstone set in an intricate wire setting. Brana’s Pacific Heights collection embodies the statement of luxury you want to make. Adorn you fingers (gloved or bare) in an over-the-top cocktail ring sure to leave a lasting impression. Brana personally selects each gemstone for shape, carat and clarity before creating an elaborate setting unique to each piece.

Browse the Seacliff and SoMa collections for the perfect silver or copper cuff sculpted and hammered exclusively by Brana himself. A subtle texture in your favorite blazer, lace blouse or little black dress is easily enhanced when paired with an anticlastic handcrafted cuff. Finish with the delicate touch of hammered link earrings in fine silver, gold or copper. This style remains contemporary and understated but will continue to draw compliments to your discerning taste.

To view each of John S. Brana’s collections, visit www.johnsbrana.com. For wholesale, event and media inquiries contact Karri Ann Frerichs, Altitude Promotions at karri.altitude@gmail.com or 402.490.2479.

©2010 Handcrafted Fine Jewelry Blog by John S. Brana. All Rights Reserved.

The next texture I tried was chasing. Chasing is a technique that is used to groove, furrow, channel , or indent utilizing the plasticity quality of metal. In this case, I used copper. Chasing is a relatively slow process, but with lots of practice can result in a continuous surface of metal essentially of the same thickness and texture. This is the exact opposite of the previous technique where you try to minimize marring.

This bracelet uses the same chasing technique, but instead of a chasing hammer, I fashioned a custom hammer by cutting groves into the face of a flat hammer (similar to a meat tenderizer), then fished off the bracelet by raising it.

The last application was to texturize the copper using a traditional ball-peen hammer.

For a great resource article on Anticlastic Raising by Michael Good, check out Jewelry Artist Magazine July 2007 AdornmentCraft

©2010 Handcrafted Fine Jewelry Blog by John S. Brana. All Rights Reserved.

I have recently been experimenting with anticlastic raising using sinusoidal stakes to add an extra dimension to forging. The stake resembles a tapering wavy line, or what I like to refer to as the "Devils Tongue." Metal can be forged into a concave curve along its face while the opposing curves can be formed at the same time. It’s great for forming a bangle, ring, or necklace. A sinusoidal stake can be made from wood, steel, or plastic, as can the wedge-shaped hammers. Anticlastic raising is a labor intensive process, but the final product is definitely worth the effort. Each of the pictured bracelets took on average around 5 hours to form.

©2010 Handcrafted Fine Jewelry Blog by John S. Brana. All Rights Reserved.