Metalsmithing 101 – The Jewelers Toolbox

Techniques of Master Jewelers

Working and shaping metal into exquisite pieces of jewelry takes time, patience and the knowledge of various metalworking techniques such as chasing, repoussé, hammering and piercing. Expert craftsmen, like John S. Brana, use a variety of techniques on each piece of jewelry to create the various masterpieces within their collection.

Chasing and repoussé are both very similar techniques used to form patterns on the surface of a metal. A jeweler chases metal by forming imprints on it without altering the reverse side. These markings are clearly seen on the chased gold and copper bracelets by John S. Brana. With repoussé, a raised design is formed on the front by working the back of a metal sheet.

Basic Jewelers Tools

Hammering is the most basic technique but is also one of the most versatile. By striking hot or cold metal with a hammer, the craftsman is able to bend and twist it as desired. Jewelers typically use an iron bench block for a solid base and a highly polished planishing hammer so as not to leave unwanted marks on the metal’s surface after it has been shaped.

Piercing with a Jewelers Saw

Piercing is exactly what it sounds like. The jeweler will remove pieces out of a metal surface and create intricate shapes by using a very fine saw blade. A drill will have to be used first if the hole is to be made in the center of the metal sheet. For an example of this, have a look at the chased copper earrings with garnets by John S. Brana. These feature an oval hole which would have been created by piercing.

Using a combination of these techniques, jewelers all over the globe are now creating stunning earrings, necklaces and bracelets in a multitude of designs, so that we can enjoy wearing a range of accessories while out and about.

Unique Handmade Copper Jewelry

The Beauty of Handmade Copper Jewelry

Copper jewelry has been worn for hundreds of years, partly for health reasons as some believe that it enhances good circulation and eases the symptoms of arthritis. While those claims have not been scientifically verified, copper has been shown to possess antimicrobial properties (helping to keep away germs and illness). Still, it is more likely that the continued popularity of copper jewelry has more to do with its unique luster and color than it does with its germ-fighting ability!

Copper jewelry is often sought after by those who like an earthy, ethnic look but more and more it can also be found making an appearance among the collections of high end jewelry designers. It offers an affordable alternative to pricier rose gold due to its lovely pinkish hue when copper is at its most natural state. The warmth of copper also makes a pleasing contrast alongside silver’s cool tones.

Versatility of Copper Jewelry

Many artisans also enjoy working with this metal due to its durability and versatility. Over time, oxidation can cause unpolished copper to darken to a warm brown color which often enhances the look of jewelry pieces. Additionally, exposure to the elements causes untreated copper to form a bluish-green patina that is often coveted by those who appreciate a distinctive look. Talented jewelry designers use this natural discoloration of copper to create unique and innovative patterns and designs.

Uncoated bright copper jewelry can tarnish over time but can be easily restored to its original state. You can purchase commercial cleaning cloths or dip your jewelry in a bath of warm water, a few drops of lemon juice and some salt. Dry with a soft cloth and the original warmth and beauty of your pieces will quickly return. Note: silver polish should not be used on copper jewelry as it is abrasive and can mar the finish.

Handmade copper jewelry by John Brana uses a special process to produce a unique mottled patina in varying shades of blue, green, brown and black in other pieces among his extensive collection of copper jewelry. These pieces are also coated with a protective lacquer that prevents tarnish and stops the jewelry from staining the skin.

Win a Free Pair of Red Copper Patinated Lily Pad Earrings – April 2010 Jewelry Freebie

For April, win these beautiful Raku-style textured Red Patinated Copper Earrings by entering your email address on any pop-up hang-tag that appears on www.johnsbrana.com or on the entry form below.  Your entry carries over month to month, so there’s no need to re-enter every month.

Each month will feature a different piece of jewelry, so enter now!

Click here to see the contest rules.

Congrats to our March 2010 Jewelry Freebie Winner – Lucy Lee of Orange County,  CA !!

“Muir Woods” Nature-Inspired Jewelry Collection is On Target for 2010 Jewelry Trends

Current trends in the jewelry industry point to all things green. From nature motifs, to raw gemstones, to all shades of the hue, 2010 trends are reflecting the global consciousness. John S. Brana seems to be slightly ahead of the curve as he premiers his Muir Woods Collection of nature-inspired jewelry to the public at a feature trunk show hosted by Bloomingdale’s – Stanford this October 3 – 4, from 12:00p.m. to 5:00p.m. The Muir Woods collection showcases the designer’s handcrafted jewelry talents in the forms of sculpted tree branches, leaves, flowers, and gemstones in faceted and raw-earth shapes.

Central to the Muir Woods Collection are the interesting handcrafted ring designs featuring beautifully faceted gemstones set in sculpted bronze or sterling silver tree branches. Each branch features bark-like textures and clutch the gemstone as if it were its own secret treasure. The tree branch motif extends into bronze and sterling silver pendants which showcase the raw-earth gemstones that are becoming a very hot trend in the jewelry industry. These stones have not been polished or faceted and present their natural beauty in their original jagged shapes and often opaque clarity. John S. Brana further showcases his metalsmithing talents to create nature-inspired jewelry motifs in his corrugated leaf and origami floral-shaped earrings in 14K gold-filled, sterling silver and copper. Brana enhances the whimsical designs and forest shapes by incorporating brilliant colors through various patination techniques. Emerald greens, brilliant turquoise, fiery reds and oranges, and rustic blacks and browns enhance the leafy shapes of the Muir Woods Collection. Each piece of patinated jewelry appears hand painted with one-of-a-kind color variances as a result of the metallic chemical reaction process used to derive the beautiful hues.

“I’m very proud of the Muir Woods Collection because it’s completely unique and I’m one of the few jewelry designers experimenting with different patina finishes,” describes Brana. “It was perfect timing for Bloomingdale’s to contact me about a Fall trunk show.” Muir Woods is John S. Brana’s eighth collection of handcrafted jewelry inspired by the neighborhoods and natural areas in and around his home of San Francisco. For more information regarding the Bloomingdale’s – Stanford trunk show, please visit bloomingdales.com and click on the store locator. For more information regarding John S. Brana’s collections, media inquiries and events, please contact Karri Ann Frerichs, Altitude Promotions by email at info@altitudepromotion.com or call 1.402.490.2579.

John S. Brana to be Featured Jewelry Designer at Bloomingdale’s – Palo Alto Trunk Show

Collections by John S. Brana, handcrafted fine jewelry designer from San Francisco, will be showcased during a weekend trunk show hosted by Bloomingdale’s in the Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto. The jewelry event will take place Saturday, October 3 through Sunday, October 4, 2009, from 12:00 p.m. To 5:00 p.m. at the fine jewelry counter. Shoppers will also enjoy Bloomingdale’s Friends and Family Discount of 20% off all jewelry by John S. Brana during this exclusive weekend event.

Brana looks forward to premiering Muir Woods, his latest collection of nature-inspired jewelry, including one-of-a-kind cocktail rings and pendants featuring large carat semi-precious gemstones set in sterling silver and bronze. “It was perfect timing for Bloomingdale’s to contact me about a Fall event. I’m very proud of the Muir Woods Collection because it’s completely unique and I’m one of the few jewelry designers experimenting with different patina finishes,” describes Brana referring to his copper earring designs in various hues of turquoise, green, red, black and orange. Additional jewelry collections available during the event include filigree earrings, dramatic pendants, statement cuffs, cocktail rings, and necklaces layered with semi-precious gemstones.

All fine jewelry designs may be purchased using Bloomingdale’s 20% off Friends and Family discount, and John S. Brana will be present to greet guests and answer all jewelry questions. Event details will be available by visiting www.bloomingdales.com, clicking on the Stores & Events page and choosing the Stanford location.

The Skinny on Designer Handmade Jewelry

What’s the difference between manufactured jewelry and designer handmade jewelry? Well, for starters, mass-market manufactured jewelry is obviously going to be cheaper, usually of lower quality, and also lacks uniqueness and creativity. Have you ever purchased a piece of mass market manufactured jewelry, gone to a party, and seen several other women wearing a similar piece of jewelry?

This definitely won’t be the case if you purchase designer handmade jewelry.  Chances are you have a unique piece, or one of only a number of limited edition pieces, and you’ll never have to worry about bumping into someone at a party and seeing that same piece of jewelry on another woman’s wrist or around her neck.

Mass market jewelry is stuff that’s stamped out by the thousands, with little or no human contact.  Designer handmade jewelry, on the other hand…is  something totally different. Of course it’s going to cost a little more, but you can be assured that when a designer hallmarks their handmade jewelry, they are guaranteeing you a certain level of quality and trust.  The designer’s name, brand, and reputation are on the line.  This seldom occurs in mass manufactured jewelry. 

Handmade jewelry is also much more labor intensive.  Numerous hours can go into creating, designing, and fabricating a single piece of jewelry, and that’s why the cost for designer handmade jewelry is usually higher than mass produced pieces. 

Maintenance of your designer handmade jewelry is relatively easy.  Over time, your silver jewelry will tarnish due to the copper content in Sterling Silver. There are several commercial products you can purchase at your local drug store or hardware store that will restore your silver to a sparkling shine.   The most versatile is a polishing cloth or rouge cloth that can be used on gold, silver, and copper jewelry.  For those more intricate silver pieces like filigree or chain, all you need is baking soda.  First, make sure you do this in a well ventilated area.  Place the chain in an aluminum pan, and cover thoroughly with baking soda. Then, pour boiling water, slowly,  into the pan.   A chemical reaction will occur and the tarnish will be removed.  Copper jewelry can be easily cleaned with these cleaning methods.  One of the added benefits of buying designer jewelry is that most designers offer cleaning services.  Customers of John S. Brana – Handcrafted Fine Jewelry can send their jewelry in at anytime for a free cleaning.

 

Click Here To Get Your Hands On Designer Handmade Jewelry

Who Knew Handcrafted Jewelry Could Be So…Interactive?

For more information and to view all jewelry styles please visit:

 

 

 

 

Scarf Rings – New Product Release by John S. Brana Fine Handcrafted Jewelry

Sometimes I’m amazed at how events develop.  Late last month, I was having lunch with an old friend/co-worker from my corporate days at Charles Schwab.  He mentioned to me how his wife was going on about scarf rings for Christmas gifts.  She had just returned from Europe where they were all the rage…something I had really never thought about designing.  Within the next week, I had a joint gallery opening with abstract photographer and silk wear designer Klaus Lange at The ArtPeople Gallery here in San Francisco.  So I put two and two together, and knocked out some scarf rings to accompany Klaus’ silk scarves.  The artists reception was on Nov 6^th, and the scarf rings were a home run!  Not bad for a 10 day turnaround.

Below are pictures of my two current scarf ring designs in Copper and Sterling Silver, along with some of the exhibition photos.  Over the next few months, I’ll be working on more designs in Vermeil and Bronze, so stay tuned…. 

 

 

Chased Copper Scarf Ring

Red Wheat Silk Chiffon Scarf by Klaus Lange

 

Chased Sterling Silver Scarf Ring

Surfer Dude Chiffon Scarf by Klaus Lange

 

 

 

New Textures Added to the Sea Cliff Jewelry Collection

Over the last few weeks, I’ve been experimenting with various textures and techniques to perfect my skills at anticlastic raising. This bracelet was done in sterling silver using traditional anticlastic raising techniques. I tried to pay particular attention to minimizing marring by the forming hammer, sanded using 400, 700, and 1000 grit sandpaper, then buffed to a mirror finish.

The next texture I tried was chasing. Chasing is a technique that is used to groove, furrow, channel , or indent utilizing the plasticity quality of metal. In this case, I used copper. Chasing is a relatively slow process, but with lots of practice can result in a continuous surface of metal essentially of the same thickness and texture. This is the exact opposite of the previous technique where you try to minimize marring.

 

 

This bracelet uses the same chasing technique, but instead of a chasing hammer, I fashioned a custom hammer by cutting groves into the face of a flat hammer (similar to a meat tenderizer), then fished off the bracelet by raising it.

The last application was to texturize the copper using a traditional ball-peen hammer.

 

 

For a great resource article on Anticlastic Raising by Michael Good, check out Jewelry Artist Magazine July 2007 AdornmentCraft

Anticlastic Raising – New Bracelets for the Sea Cliff Collection

I have recently been experimenting with anticlastic raising using sinusoidal stakes to add an extra dimension to forging. The stake resembles a tapering wavy line, or what I like to refer to as the "Devils Tongue." Metal can be forged into a concave curve along its face while the opposing curves can be formed at the same time. It’s great for forming a bangle, ring, or necklace. A sinusoidal stake can be made from wood, steel, or plastic, as can the wedge-shaped hammers. Anticlastic raising is a labor intensive process, but the final product is definitely worth the effort. Each of the pictured bracelets took on average around 5 hours to form.