Transforming Metal into Art: The Innovative World of Fold Forming Techniques

Fold forming is a revolutionary technique in jewelry design that allows artists to create complex, three-dimensional shapes from metal sheets. This method involves folding, hammering, and unfolding the metal to achieve intricate designs that are both lightweight and strong. Materials supplied for fold forming typically include copper, brass, and sterling silver.
DESIGNING JEWELRY BY FOLD FORMING WITH CHARLES LEWTON BRAIN
Fold forming is a collection of techniques developed and pioneered by Charles Lewton-Brain. These fold forming techniques are now being used in a wide array of jewelry styles, from earrings to bracelets. During the process of fold forming, sheets of metal are hammered and annealed into three-dimensional shapes without any soldering. While only a couple decades old – hailing back to the 1980s – this metalsmithing process employs metal’s plasticity to create complex forms.

Fold forming has become widely recognized as a new approach to jewelry-making and metal-working all over the world. Modern fold forming is considered a combination of traditional metalwork and origami. It’s about allowing the metal to fold in natural ways according to its plasticity, instead of forcing form. When one does not fight to form the metal, forming becomes extremely rapid and efficient. Highly complex relief forms can be produced with just a single sheet of metal and a few tools, including your hands, fingers, mallets, hammers, anvils, rolling mills, and hydraulic press.

Fold forming techniques can be used with a wide range of metals, including steel, niobium, and aluminum. The technique involves folding, working, and then unfolding the metal to create complex and intricate forms without the need for soldering, making it applicable for jewelry and other metalwork. They are often used in enameling, holloware, and jewelry as there is no soldering required. Fold forming metal can be combined with chain maille and fabricating metal leaves to create unique jewelry pieces with texture and color.
FOLD FORMING - THE BASIC FOLDS
Names are given to the basic folds in the process of fold forming, including the chased wedge t fold. These may include T-Folds, Line-Folds, Rueger Folds, and Cross-Folds, among others. Rolled folds are also essential in creating intricate and dimensional metal forms. Both traditional and non-traditional metals can be used in fold forming.

Copper and sterling silver are ideal mediums, often used in jewelry, for their brilliant luster and versatility. While fold forms are beautiful in themselves, they are often used as components in more complex pieces. Once basic folds have been mastered, fold forms can be manipulated, sliced, and rejoined. Fold forming can shape metal into flowing, three-dimensional forms with natural, organic qualities.
Form folding is an art form that provides quick and gratifying results and lead to fresh and innovative design ideas in jewelry and other objects. While there are a set of basic fold-forms known, each can be taken in many directions. It’s entirely possible to create a form that has never been done before. Due to their uniqueness and beautiful qualities, fold formed jewelry makes for the perfect gift idea for any occasion.
The Rolex Awards for Enterprise, The British Museum Research Lab, and several others have certified the process of fold forming as new and has never been done in the history of metal working. Fold forming is unlike traditional forms of jewelry as they have more texture and creative properties that make them must-have pieces in every jewelry box.

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John Brana
Author
John S Brana, based in San Francisco, is the founder of John S Brana Handmade Jewelry and President of Galleria NuVo, Inc. with over two decades of expertise in crafting distinctive handcrafted pieces. Transitioning from a finance and banking career in 2004, John manages everything from design to marketing. His modern, urban-inspired creations have graced fashion editorials, resonating with stylish, adventurous enthusiasts who value exquisite craftsmanship and luxury. Every piece narrates a distinct tale, mirroring the wearer's individuality.
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